Kosher in India?

Cows, buffalo, dogs, pigs a whole zoo walking in the street. You are not allowed to eat any and if by mistake you kill a cow you have to feed the whole village-have a party and dip in the gangas river which is not so clean.. Some eat chicken or goat meet but as our group keeps kosher it is easy to stick to non meat and some time non dairy diet.

Most dishes have protein in the form of beans. Then use of spices like turmeric, cumin, fennel, mustard seeds and red chili powder adds amazing flavor and let’s not forget vegetables like tomatoes, onions, eggplant and more makes it easy to be vegetarian for two weeks.

Lunch was served in something called Thila, a round platter with small bowls, each contains a dish, rice in the middle and Nan, so you supposed to pour the dal or paneer on vegetables masala on the rice and eat with your right hand. Eating with your hands adds to the taste.

The thing with Indian cooking is that there are those 7 spices , red chili powder for taste, turmeric for blood circulation, cumin for brain and sharp memory, black mustard seeds for digestion,fennel seeds for digestive and Fenugreek seeds for arthritis, and another mixture of spices called Gara masala which includes black pepper, cinnamon, black cardamon, cloves, coriander seeds, bay leaves and cumin seeds, roast them and grind. This can be kept in closed container for years.

The last night in Udaphur we were treated to a cooking class. I got real excited, the mystery of cooking dal, paneer, masala, nan and more will be revealed. I promised an Indian meal on my return but here is something different to have any time of the day .
We all love tea and in India we have the chai masala, a black tea with a mixture of dry ginger, cardamon black pepper, cinnamon all mix in equal parts and grind. To make chai boil 1 cup water with 2 pinches of the chai masala add assam tea leaves, add 1 cup milk and sugar to taste bring to boil for two minutes and again ( just like Turkish coffee) cover it for two minutes and strain.

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Women power, art and food

Yesterday we had the most incredible day it started with walking to the Jagdish temple,climbing up steep steps , taking off our shoes, listening to the chanting, getting a red dot on the forehead. The hindus love their temple, the carving in the marble stone are intricate and tell the stories of the different lords.

Udaphur is known for it’s artists. There is glass mosaic and miniature drawings. I chose the drawing workshop. We came to an artist cooperative, the artist helped us create our own elephant drawing using paints like orange tumeric, blue lapis,  grey purple for the elephant body. All are minerals from the ground. I was in my element. I was transformed into a magical world, there are three symbols for the Rajasthan state, the elephant is luck, the horse is strength and the camel is love, each also relates to a different city, the elephant for Jaipur, the horse for Udaphur and the camel for Jaisalmer.

28 km outside of Udaphur there is a village called Delwara, a town of 5,000 people from 27 different castes and different religions.
Seva Mandir which is a non profit NGO (non government organization) founded the Citizen’s Development forum, together they transformed the town infrastructure. Major changes were accomplished which include sanitation, half of the households did not have toilets or running water. They created a step well. They build youth centers . We were taken on a heritage tour by a young man, there are incredible Jain temples. Jain religion has a different god, a human like figure that is not adorned in cloth like the hindu gods.

They helped women organize themselves into self help groups, they created a Sadnha where they make cloths that sell at the Fab India store. Some of these women come from abused homes and this is their way for independence.
Seeing garbage on the street is a common sight, whether it is the big city like jaipur of the smaller city of Pushkar but the village of Delwara look cleaner in comparison. With the help of NGO’s like Seva Mandir or the Barefoot College we saw outside of Pushkar there is hope for a cleaner , more civilized society.

It’s been a long day, rewarding and intriguing. We were treated to a cooking class.
It was a delight. I got really excited, You all know I love cooking so I was in my element. I got to stir the base for the masala.  Home cooked meal tastes so much better then a fancy restaurant.

What a day, it felt like India in a day – pray,art,people,food. Colors, Smells, Taste .

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Going south-Udaipur-

6AM and we are on the way to the train that will take us to southern Rajasthan-the land of kings.
As a matter of fact we landed in Mumbai and went north to Jaipur which is the capital .
The landscape changes, there are no green fields of wheat or yellow flowers we saw from Agra to Jaipur but rather desert like sceneary, some trees but mostly dry land.
As we get closer the white magnificence of the palaces appears.
We drive through narrow streets up and down alleys towards our hotel which sits on the lake.
As we enter The Jagat Niwas Palace we think we are on the set of the improved Marigold hotel ( some of us saw Judi Densh in Jaipur filming the sequal).
We go on a boat ride, see the palace , unfortunately it is closed as the prince is getting married tomorrow.
The mountains around reminds of Italy, There is the summer palace which sits in the middle of the lake but alas it is converted into a fancy hotel.
We have a Rajasthan diner on the roof of another hotel by the lake looking at the palace.
I am not a big fan of Indian food but there is not much choice so I tried the daal which is basically lentil soup in yellow orange sauce, basmati rice, paneer with spinach and some spicy vegetables, desert is these round sugary balls .
As we leave we try the mix of fennel and sugar to cleanse our palate, it’s actually good, does the trick.

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Taj-Shmaz-Crown of India

Yesterday we took the train to Agra , the ride on the train seemed ok to start but turned into a nightmare, the seats -not comfortable, the train crowded and on top the fog made us stop every half hour so a trip of four and half hours took six. We spent the night at the Radisson, a western hotel that felt like a palace.
The weather prediction for morning fog was true so no Taj at sunrise. We started the day at the AgrA Fort, a beautiful fort build by the shah Jahan ,it is an Incredible structure , geometric designs.
At noon it was time to see one of the seven marvels of the world , The Taj Mahal. We entered through the east gate, as we got tickets in advance we used the vip line, went through security, only cameras allowed , got water and surgeon slippers to cover our shoes.
We then proceeded to the North gate, which by itself it a work of art with writing from the koran. As we pass through the magnificent of the Taj Mahal appeared . The symmetrical gardens are perfect and the marble white structure with the four towers symbolized the four corners is truly incredable. All skepticism aside , It is an incredible achievement that was build in mid 16 century by shah Jahan as a memorial for his third wife, mum tax mahal who died giving birth to their 14th son, there are stories that his hair fell from sorrow. How interesting it is that “we” create/build momentous buildings for the dead as if to immortalize them.

India is a country of extremes, the Taj is a pure drop in a sea of sorrow , a rich element in a poor place.
So let’s enjoy the beauty and the purity and remember the suffering and the poor.
We returned to Jaipur and this time the train was on time , the seats more comfortable and it only took 4 hours.

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Barefoot college

Sunday morning, it’s only the third day but the smells, the cows walking everywhere like they own the place, the morning bell announcing it’s time to deep in the holy lake of Pushkar and the chanting that sounds like a hummmmmmm.
Morning mindfulness meditation with Dina and we are off to see something different, a ray of hope for the future.
The Barefoot college is an NGO that started by Bunker Roy ( you can hear his talk on Ted) who came visited some villages in 1967 and opened BC in 1972, It teaches women a job and by that strengthen the villagers and help them solve their own problems. The women in Indian society does not have much to say, most are illiterate , once married she moves with her husband to his family and basically works for them, then there is the cast system . At barefoot college which runs by solar power we saw women making solar oven, we saw women weaving, we met women who got trained as dental hygenice, as accupunture. The place was clean and the building well kept. The man who took us around was very proud to of the place and the fact that women do everything. It’s an empowering and eye opener.
We continued to Jaipur and 8 of us boarded a train top Agra.
The train arrived 15 minutes late , we had assigned seats, not bad, felt like a crowded old metro north…
The weather has been cold , this morning started foggy then got lighter.
Can’t wait to see the Taj.

Shabbath in the holy city

We woke up at 6am for a hike to a temple high up in the mountain , the temple is a small building devoted to Brahama’s first wife,her name starts with Giva…all the names of the deities in INdia are long and hard to pronounce.
As we started the walk, the street are dark, few cows roaming arounnd.We arrive to the top of a steep hill and the sun was rising.
The temple opened , there are three status inside the wife and her daughter and son, the story goes that when Brahama who is the father god asked for her to come she refused and it took her long time to come , by that time Braham found another wife and when the first arrived he banished her and she disappeared however she got upset and cursed him that he will not have a temple , there is only one temple for him in all of India and it is in Pushkar . We went to it later in the day, everyone must have a pilgrimige once in his lifetime..Hindu religion there is Father Brahama then shiva and vishnu then shiva has Ram and Krishna..then there are many other deities which are reincarnation of God all this to help people understand the concept of God, how interesting.
In Pushkar there is a lake where one supposed to wash everyday , at sundown there is a ceremony with lights and a bell ringing that forbids getting into the lake after. There are also pools where one can go bath, it’s all holy so you have to take your shoes 30 feet before.
So far what I see is worshiping all around, there are many temples, the gods are painted in colors and sometimes gold or silver leaf but the temples are badly maintained, paint pilling, broken stone , half build. It feels dirty.
To no surprise we found a chabad house and hebrew signs, the shopkeeper know little hebrew and try to guess where we are from by saying shalom etc to try to get us to come shop.It reminds me of the shuk in the old city right after the six day war.
We had a mindfulness session and yoga on the roof. To end Shabbath we had Havdala and went shopping.
The food is vegetarian, tonight we had okra, puneer, rice, sou. I have never eaten so much indian food, I have to take it easy, I felt a bit sick so
I had an Ayurvedic massage in the afternoon, it was fantastic, rejuvinating.

Day 2-Jaipur to Pushkar

Morning fog welcomes us on the first morning in Jaipur,breakfast chai was great but nothing else memorable.
We drive thru Jaipur on the way to the amber fort.
The wind palace is basically a facade, made of many windows thus the name The old Jaipur is a walled city, the doors are painted pink which is the color of hospitality.
The hindus gets their horoscope when they are born, they make decisions according to the way the planets and the stars align, they consult an astrologer for important life events. There is an observatory in Jaipur that has many sun dials, each one is used for different measurments. There is 12 sun dials for each zodiac sign, it is fascinating. To think that every important event in one’s life is written in the sky.
The fog is still hovering, it seems like there is a dust cloud over the ,and. We left Jaipur on the way to the holy city of Pushkar.The landscape is dusry,dry. There is a contrast between the vibrant colors and the beige/grey color of the land.
Arrivng to Pushkar you hear a hum, they say it’s the prayer hum but it’s also the singing and instrument playing.
The hotel, The pushkar palace seats on an a lake surrounded by temples, you cant go near the lake with shoes, the sign says, no smoking, no meat no shoes 30 feet from the lake.
Pushkar is called a holy city, tomorrow we will hike to the temple on the hill for a veiw, they dont eat meat and the cows walk everywhere, they don’t drink wine but they smoke grass..I guess they need something to get high.
Shabbath is at 5:45, I ‘d better get ready.
Shabatth shalom